State-owned railways might not immediately conjure images of opulent travel, but Spain is redefining expectations with its luxury sleeper train, the Costa Verde Express. Intrigued by the concept of upscale Train Travel through Northern Spain, I embarked on a six-day journey to experience it firsthand. This route, tracing Spain’s verdant northern coast, promised stops in historic medieval towns, UNESCO World Heritage sites, and charming seaside villages. My adventure began in October 2023 in Bilbao, an industrial city, and was set to conclude in Santiago de Compostela, the revered final destination for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. While my journey would intersect with pilgrimage routes, my experience was tailored for luxury: Champagne dinners, a private cabin, expert local guides at each destination, and even a grand onboard gala awaited.
:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/TAL-santillana-del-mar-COSTAVERDETRAIN0824-0377ffcf368d4290b1a9307684e2c3f9.jpg)
Exploring the timeless beauty of Santillana del Mar, a highlight on this Spanish train travel adventure.
Day 1: From Bilbao to Santander – Embarking on a Luxurious Rail Journey
My journey commenced at Bilbao-Concordia train station around 10 a.m. Arriving with ample time, I checked in my luggage and indulged in a local pastry and apricot juice before joining a guided exploration of Bilbao’s old town and the renowned Guggenheim Museum. Upon our return to the station, a porter personally escorted me to my cabin aboard the Costa Verde Express. While compact – just enough space for a double bed and a built-in desk – the cabin exuded style. Wood-paneled walls, elegant gold silk curtains, and a chic en-suite bathroom with a glass shower and marble sink created an atmosphere of refined comfort, perfectly setting the tone for this train travel experience.
As the train gently departed at 2:15 p.m., our luxury train travel experience officially began with glasses of chilled Catalan cava served in the Pullman dining car. The dining car itself was a spectacle of classic elegance, mirroring the cabin’s wood paneling, complemented by plush green velvet armchairs and warm brass table lamps. Over the next three delightful hours, waiters in traditional tartan vests and crisp white gloves presented a four-course lunch. The menu was an adventurous blend of flavors: French toast with foie gras and blueberry (surprisingly delicious), hearty Basque fish stew, classic duck confit, and creamy cheesecake for dessert. As the picturesque landscapes of vineyards and apple orchards streamed past the windows, I engaged in conversations with fellow passengers. The group, approximately fifty well-dressed travelers, included a vibrant flamenco dancer from Andalusia and an insightful psychologist from Puerto Rico. “It’s utterly romantic, isn’t it?” remarked a flight attendant from Chicago, encapsulating the shared sentiment of embarking on such a unique train travel experience.
Our arrival in the port city of Santander at 5:30 p.m. coincided perfectly with the late afternoon daylight, allowing for a guided coach tour of the scenic coastline. The bay was bathed in soft, cotton-candy pink hues as the tour concluded. Seizing the opportunity, I ventured for a swim at El Sardinero, a sprawling beach framed by elegant Belle Époque buildings. The Cantabrian Sea was invigoratingly cold, yet the sunset was an unforgettable spectacle. After warming up amongst the beachside boulders, I joined my fellow train travel companions in town at Querida Margarita, where I savored a melt-in-your-mouth Ibérico-pork shoulder.
For evening entertainment, a magic show was scheduled back on the train. However, eager to absorb more of Santander’s charm, I independently explored the historic 13th-century cathedral and the lively Plaza de Cañadío. A key advantage of train travel on the Costa Verde Express is that the train remains stationary each night, allowing for relaxed exploration. Returning to my cabin, I discovered a thoughtful touch: a square of dark chocolate on my pillow. Drifting off to sleep, the gentle rustling of birds nesting in the station’s tiled roof became a soothing lullaby.
Related: The Best Train Trips to Take Across America
:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/TAL-altamira-cave-museum-guggenheim-bilbao-COSTAVERDETRAIN0824-765c1274592e43ba82168fc547a34f49.jpg)
Contrasting Spanish artistry: from ancient cave paintings at the Altamira Museum to the modern architectural marvel of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, both accessible through train travel.
Day 2: Santander to Llanes – Coastal Scenery and Prehistoric Art
The day began with an 8 a.m. wake-up bell, and shortly after, the train smoothly resumed its journey. From the comfort of my bed, I watched the Cantabrian countryside unfold – curly-horned cows grazing peacefully in vibrant green pastures, and children playing joyfully on swings. Breakfast in the dining car featured smoked salmon and freshly prepared eggs, fueling us for the day’s explorations as the train approached Cabezón de la Sal, a town with a rich salt-mining history. Arriving at 9:30 a.m., we were transported by bus to the Altamira Museum, a crucial stop for anyone interested in history and art. Here, we were captivated by the meticulously crafted replicas of Paleolithic cave paintings, originally discovered nearby in 1879. This immersion into prehistoric art is a unique cultural highlight accessible via this train travel route.
Lunch was a traditional Cantabrian affair at Santillana Gil Blas, a restaurant near the museum, where we savored cocido, a hearty bean stew with black pudding and chorizo. Following lunch, we explored Santillana del Mar, a remarkably preserved medieval village. “It’s like stepping into a living museum,” our guide, Daniel Escudero, aptly described. The village’s main street was lined with shops offering regional delicacies like Cantabrian anchovies, wild-boar sausages, and orujo, a local brandy. I encountered two pilgrims from Canada purchasing butter cake, the town’s specialty sweet treat. They shared that they had already walked 186 miles of the Camino de Santiago and still had 300 miles remaining, highlighting the diverse journeys intersecting in this region, some on foot, others enjoying luxury train travel.
Continuing westward, much like the pilgrims, we arrived in Llanes, a historic medieval port town nestled among rocky, turquoise coves. Llanes would be our picturesque overnight stop. Dinner, featuring monkfish salad, tender beef loin, and tocinillo de cielo, a delicate flan-like dessert, was served back on board the train. The evening concluded with an engaging gin-spritz master class led by Nacho Capín, the train’s resident mixologist, adding a touch of convivial sophistication to our train travel experience.
Day 3: Llanes to Oviedo – Exploring National Parks and Historic Capitals
I awoke to the distinct sound of a cockerel and the earthy aroma of farmland – the train was stationed in Asturias, known as Spain’s “natural paradise.” Post-breakfast, a coach took us to Picos de Europa National Park, a dramatic landscape of towering limestone peaks, deep gorges carved by rivers, and meadows bursting with wildflowers. Our skilled driver navigated the winding hairpin turns leading to the glacial Lakes of Covadonga, perched over 3,280 feet above sea level. These UNESCO-protected mountains are a haven for rare wildlife, including elusive Iberian wolves and shrewlike desmans. While sightings of these creatures remained elusive, we were delighted to spot a herd of horned Asturian cows roaming freely and a solitary peregrine falcon soaring overhead. This excursion into pristine nature is a refreshing contrast to the urban stops along this train travel itinerary.
Returning to the comfort of the train for lunch, we continued our journey to Oviedo, the stately capital of the Asturias region. We arrived at 5:30 p.m. for a guided tour of the city’s historic old quarter and the magnificent Gothic Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo. This cathedral is reputed to house the cloth that covered Christ’s face after his crucifixion, adding a layer of historical and religious significance to the visit. Dinner that evening was hosted in the verdant courtyard of La Gran Taberna, featuring a refined crab bisque and caramelized cheesecake. Before retiring to my cabin for the night, I enjoyed a nightcap at La Pumarada, a traditional pub where waiters expertly pour cider from bottles held high above their heads, a local custom providing a taste of Asturian culture to complement our train travel adventure.
:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/TAL-picos-de-europa-park-santiago-de-compostela-COSTAVERDETRAIN0824-0d5ca7fba3d0402f89a274e3cf670820.jpg)
From left: Immersive hiking experiences in Picos de Europa National Park, easily accessible during your train travel journey; the historic main square and cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, the culmination of this luxury rail tour.
Days 4 & 5: Oviedo to Viveiro – Coastal Vistas and Festive Celebrations
The three-hour train travel segment between the fishing villages of Candás and Luarca proved to be the most visually stunning of the entire route. The train tracks wound along a breathtaking tapestry of turquoise bays gently lapping against dramatic limestone cliffs, rivers carving paths through emerald hills, and wheat fields dotted with charming 16th-century hórreos – hut-sized granaries crafted from chestnut wood. This ever-changing panorama of Northern Spain is a quintessential highlight of choosing train travel.
On our penultimate day, we arrived in Viveiro, a port town celebrated for its beautiful beaches and vibrant Holy Week celebrations. As we toured the historic center, the skies opened, and rain began to pour. While most of the group opted to return to the train, I, equipped with an umbrella, continued to explore Viveiro independently. The 16th-century glass verandas and remarkably preserved medieval walls took on an enhanced beauty in the rain-washed atmosphere. This flexibility to explore at one’s own pace is another advantage of this style of train travel.
Our farewell dinner aboard the train was a culinary delight: black-truffle ravioli followed by perfectly seared sea bass. Later, at 11:30 p.m., the train manager extended a warm invitation to everyone to gather in the bar car, which had been festively decorated with green and gold balloons. Champagne flowed freely as we collectively toasted the exceptional crew. The flamenco dancer, dazzling in a sparkly red dress, took to the dance floor, her rhythmic heel-tapping encouraging other passengers to join the celebratory atmosphere. The joyous festivities continued until 3 a.m., marking a memorable night of camaraderie and celebration on our luxury train travel adventure.
Day 6: Viveiro to Santiago de Compostela – Journey’s End and Pilgrim Spirit
The Costa Verde Express departed Viveiro at 7 a.m., heading towards Ferrol. In Ferrol, we bid farewell to the dedicated train crew and transferred to a bus for the final hour-long drive to Santiago de Compostela. We met our local guide, Manuel Mallo, at Plaza del Obradoiro, Santiago’s main square and the traditional gathering point for pilgrims completing the Camino de Santiago.
Despite the persistent rain, the atmosphere in Santiago was palpably electric. “If you don’t experience a rainy day in Santiago, you don’t truly understand Santiago,” our guide wisely remarked. Galician bagpipers played traditional melodies near the entrance to the plaza, adding to the emotional ambiance. Hundreds of pilgrims embraced, shed tears of relief and accomplishment, and shared red wine from scallop shells on the ancient granite steps of the magnificent Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. This Romanesque complex, dating back to 1075, is believed to house the remains of Saint James, one of Jesus’s twelve apostles. While my journey to Santiago was by luxury train rather than on foot, I felt a sense of connection to the pilgrims I had met along the way, and immense gratitude for the opportunity to experience the stunning green coast of Spain from the unparalleled comfort of a plush train. This luxury train travel experience offered a unique and unforgettable perspective on a historically significant and naturally beautiful region.
A version of this story first appeared in the August 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Spain by Train.”
