The late 1980s and early 1990s were a golden era for sneakers, a time when new brands seemed to emerge from every corner, each with its own unique story and style. Among these brands, Travel Fox carved out a distinctive niche, not necessarily for athletic prowess, but for something arguably more compelling: aspirational cool. In an age where price tags often equated to prestige, Travel Fox Shoes became synonymous with high-end, sports-inspired fashion, captivating a generation and leaving a lasting imprint on sneaker culture.
Reflecting on today’s landscape, where high-end sports footwear continues to dominate, exemplified by collaborations like Kanye West’s Louis Vuitton creations and the enduring Yeezy line, it’s clear that the fascination with premium sneakers is far from new. Travel Fox was a pioneer in this realm, a brand that, for many, was an early lesson in the perceived value of expensive footwear. It instilled the idea that a hefty price tag translated to inherent worth and style, subconsciously setting a benchmark where anything under a certain price point felt somehow less desirable. In essence, Travel Fox shoes were gatekeepers, defining a new echelon of sneaker status.
Yet, despite their impact, the true history of Travel Fox remains somewhat shrouded in mystery. For many, including myself, the introduction to Travel Fox came through cultural osmosis, observed on the feet of trendsetting individuals who also championed other European lifestyle brands like Click Suits and Chipie. These were brands re-appropriated and given new meaning by style-conscious subcultures. Vikings and Ballys were also part of this aspirational mix. This era of pinrolled jeans and meticulously curated looks deserves deeper analysis, beyond the snapshots captured in magazines like ‘The Face’. For those of us on the outside looking in, denied access to these fleeting trends, understanding the phenomenon remains a fascinating puzzle.
From what I’ve gathered, Travel Fox originated as an Italian brand, crafting premium sneakers designed for everyday wear, emphasizing style and quality over purely athletic function. The brand’s foray into the US market was spearheaded by Ashley Schapiro, who, recognizing their potential, imported them around 1985/86 through Hongson International, a New York-based company with strong ties to Far East manufacturing. Hongson International played a crucial role in transferring Italian manufacturing expertise to Asian factories, ensuring the quality and craftsmanship were maintained as production scaled. This positioned Travel Fox perfectly alongside luxury brands like Bally, Gucci, and MCM in the aspirational market.
Travel Fox’s marketing strategy was as bold as its pricing. They launched a series of risqué advertisements that, while attention-grabbing, ultimately led to controversy. In 1987, the brand parted ways with its ad agency following backlash during the AIDS epidemic for using overtly sexual imagery to sell sneakers. A couple of years later, Travel Fox shoes began to appear in the UK, though their exact origin – whether US imports, Italian imports, or UK licensed products – remains unclear. This was a time when individuality and one-upmanship, expressed through unique style choices, were paramount, a stark contrast to today’s more homogenous fashion landscape.
The fate of other brands from that era highlights the volatile nature of the sneaker market. Troop, another ultra-expensive brand, was plagued by unfounded rumors and eventually ended up as discounted stock. Interestingly, even in provincial towns, these brands enjoyed an extended period of perceived coolness, lasting perhaps two years longer than in fashion-forward urban centers. Rumors, often baseless, swirled around various brands; in my hometown, there was even a completely untrue rumor linking Reebok to dubious investors. It’s tempting to imagine that the marketing minds behind Travel Fox might have even instigated some of these whispers to further elevate their brand mystique. Adding to their cultural cachet, rapper Tone Loc, a significant name at the time, endorsed Travel Fox, further cementing their cool factor.
Reebok, however, struck back decisively with the introduction of the Pump, later rebranded as The Bringback in 1989. These sneakers epitomized 80s excess, a style choice that, in retrospect, appears rather garish. My first encounter with the Pump was on the cover of a rather conservative magazine, worn by none other than Jonathan King, a controversial pop pundit, who bragged about their £175 price tag and his early access to them. Hardly the most credible endorsement, perhaps. In contrast, Travel Fox shoes caught my attention primarily because of their staggering £140 price tag. When you consider that the Air Trainer SC and Air Stab were already considered expensive at £85, and Air Jordan IVs were around £65, Travel Fox’s price point was astronomical. This immediately signaled exclusivity and desirability.
Beyond the price, the perceived quality justified the cost, at least in the eyes of consumers. The supple nappa leather, the hangtags, and even the packaging, which included a mini-essay justifying your purchase, all contributed to the allure. Travel Fox shoes weren’t just footwear; they were an experience. However, their exclusivity also meant they were elusive. By the time they reached the shelves of stores I frequented, particularly for basketball-inspired shoes, the initial hype had begun to wane for those specific models.
The cultural impact of Travel Fox extended into unexpected territories. The late Tony Wilson, a legendary figure in British music and culture, was known for pairing Travel Fox shoes, often in white or animal print, with Armani suits, creating a deliberately mismatched Italian-inspired look. The BBC’s ‘The Clothes Show,’ a popular fashion program, even featured Travel Fox as the epitome of overpriced high-top sneakers. They also became a footwear staple for artists produced by Stock, Aitken and Waterman, the dominant pop music production team of the era. Interestingly, Pete Waterman of Stock Aitken Waterman later showed unexpected musical depth by releasing Diamond D’s album, proving there was more to him than just bubblegum pop. The comfort of Travel Fox shoes also made them popular among club-goers and ravers with disposable income, further broadening their appeal beyond the initial aspirational fashion crowd.
By 1990, the sneaker landscape was evolving rapidly. While major brands were pushing innovation, a subtle brand war was unfolding among fashion-conscious youth. Alongside established names, Fila Hikers and suede Champion sneakers gained local popularity. Even in smaller towns, niche stores catered to a clientele willing to pay a premium for exclusivity, seeking out brands that weren’t mass-market. K-Swiss even attempted to market their Classic model in the UK as a sophisticated alternative for those seeking to elevate their style. Travel Fox, in suede variations, became more accessible, priced slightly above Jordans but still maintaining a premium position. Jazzy B and the Soul II Soul crew, style icons of the era, frequently sported Travel Fox shoes, further solidifying their cool image. However, as often happens with trend-driven brands, ubiquity eventually led to a decline in desirability. Travel Fox, like many before and after, fell victim to its own success, becoming passé as its visibility increased.
That same year, US brand representatives began using the term “casualetic” – casual shoes with athletic influences – to describe Travel Fox, keen to emphasize their lifestyle focus over athletic performance. By 1992, Travel Fox was being marketed as upmarket hiking footwear in US department stores, a clear attempt to reposition the brand. However, Travel Fox US struggled, even venturing into performance athletic footwear, a move that signaled a departure from their core identity. By the mid-1990s, Travel Fox had largely disappeared from the US market.
In Europe, the story took a different turn. A UK license for Travel Fox seemed to be acquired by the same company that developed Caterpillar footwear. Travel Fox became a key brand in the early years of Offspring, a prominent UK sneaker retailer. By 1997, however, I recall seeing Travel Fox shoes in Offspring looking somewhat out of place, attempting to compete with the prevailing trends of the time – Nike Air Maxes, Adidas Superstars, and other contemporary styles – at a discounted £45 price point. It felt like encountering a once-glamorous friend from a bygone era, now struggling and diminished. Rumors circulated that in the US, Travel Fox shoes were relegated to bargain bins, selling for next to nothing.
Whether this UK presence was due to the UK licensee or a last-ditch effort by Travel Fox Italy remains another unanswered question. I believe I even saw retro releases of late 80s Travel Fox models gathering dust in stores a few years ago, a testament to their fluctuating fortunes. Ashley Schapiro, the original US importer, regained US distribution rights in 1999, though whether this was under the Hongson umbrella or a solo venture is unclear.
Brands like SPX, once sponsors of Lennox Lewis and imitators of Troop, attempted a similar comeback in the early 2000s, with limited success. Even Troop itself couldn’t effectively capitalize on the retro trend, despite having Ghostface Killah as a frontman. Perhaps the most disheartening development was the acquisition of Travel Fox and Champion labels by JJB Sports, a UK-based discount sports retailer known for selling low-cost merchandise. This marked a significant decline for brands that once represented aspirational style and quality.
Online searches reveal some rather uninspired Travel Fox designs that bear the hallmarks of JJB’s budget-focused approach. More recently, Jump Shoes, a division of Hongson launched in 1992, has been promoting its take on the Vanquish model. While Vanquish may not have been the most iconic Travel Fox silhouette in the UK, Jump Shoes’ efforts indicate an awareness of the cyclical nature of fashion and the renewed interest in independent, fashion-driven footwear.
Stripped of the era’s mystique, the original Travel Fox branding, and the aspirational price tags, and with the internet demystifying much of the past, the brand’s resurgence feels different. The internet age has diminished the sense of exclusivity and mystery that once surrounded brands like Travel Fox. However, there’s still a certain appeal in revisiting these brands, a nostalgic connection to a specific moment in sneaker history. While it may not be the same, one can still appreciate the attempt to revive a brand that, in its heyday, resonated more deeply than its fleeting reputation might suggest.
(Apologies to anyone whose picture archives I may have inadvertently borrowed from to illustrate this blog post.)
If anyone with firsthand experience at Travel Fox is reading this and willing to share their story, please get in touch!