Planning a trip from Toronto to the Big Apple? While flying is often the default choice, consider a more relaxed and scenic alternative: traveling by train. My recent journey on the Amtrak/Via Rail “Maple Leaf” route from New York City to Toronto offered a unique perspective on travel, proving that sometimes the journey truly is the destination. While it’s a commitment of around 13 hours, the experience is punctuated with stunning landscapes and charming cities, making it a worthwhile adventure for those who aren’t in a rush.
NYC to Albany-Rensselaer: The Majestic Hudson River
The first leg of the trip, from New York City’s Penn Station to Albany-Rensselaer, is arguably the most visually captivating. Clocking in at approximately 2.5 hours, though with a bit of a layover in Albany, this segment is a feast for the eyes. The train tracks trace the eastern bank of the Hudson River, offering uninterrupted panoramic views of the dramatic Palisades cliffs across the water. This section is also the fastest part of the journey, allowing you to settle in and enjoy the scenery as it whizzes by. For the best views heading north, snag a seat on the left side of the train; southbound travelers should aim for the right. Keep in mind that during the shorter days of the year, the southbound views might be best enjoyed earlier in the day.
Albany-Rensselaer to the Canadian Border: Farm Country and Quaint Towns
Leaving Albany-Rensselaer, the landscape shifts as the train heads west towards the Canadian border. This segment, scheduled for around 6.5 hours, takes you through the heart of upstate New York, passing through cities like Schenectady, Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Rochester, and Buffalo. While not as dramatically scenic as the Hudson River Valley, this portion offers a pleasant immersion into rural America, with endless stretches of farm country rolling past your window. The pace slows down considerably here, likely due to more frequent at-grade crossings and track conditions. It’s a chance to unwind, read a book, or simply watch the world go by at a more leisurely pace.
Canadian Border to Toronto Union Station: The Final Stretch
The last leg, from the Canadian border to Toronto’s Union Station, is the shortest on paper at about 2 hours, but often feels the slowest in reality. While less visually striking, particularly if traveling at night, this section is characterized by frequent stops and numerous at-grade crossings, contributing to a slower average speed. However, the destination is well worth the wait. Toronto’s Union Station is an architectural gem and a transportation hub, providing seamless connections to the UP Express to the airport and the city’s subway system, making onward travel a breeze.
Navigating the Border Crossing: Patience is Key
One aspect of the Toronto to New York train journey that requires patience is the border crossing procedure. Factor in an additional 2 hours to your total travel time to account for this process. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect at the Niagara Falls border crossing:
- Customs Declaration: Approximately 30 minutes before arriving at Niagara Falls, Amtrak personnel will distribute customs declaration forms. Be sure to have a pen handy to fill this out.
- Niagara Falls, NY (NFL) Station Stop: The train makes a lengthy stop (around 45 minutes) at Niagara Falls, NY station. While ostensibly for border agents to prepare, passengers remain on the train during this time.
- Niagara Falls, ON (NFS) Station and Security: A short 5-minute ride brings you to Niagara Falls, ON station. Here, all passengers disembark with their luggage for security screening. Canadian customs typically involves a few straightforward questions and is relatively quick (around 15 minutes). However, after screening, you’ll be directed outside and around the station to the main entrance waiting area – a slightly confusing detour.
- Waiting Room and Train Search: Expect to wait in the station waiting room for at least 30 minutes while border officials conduct a thorough search of the entire train for contraband. Business class passengers are allowed to re-board first, followed by coach passengers. The remainder of the journey is operated by Via Rail, though your Amtrak ticket covers the entire route originating from the US.
The southbound border crossing from Canada to the US follows a similar procedure, but with the addition of airport-style baggage screening and, often, canine units. This process can take 45 minutes to an hour, highlighting the somewhat cumbersome nature of train border crossings compared to car travel.
Worth the Journey? Cost and Time Considerations
Despite the border crossing delays, the train journey from Toronto to New York remains an enjoyable and potentially cost-effective option. In my experience, the coach ticket price of ~$134 (even less with discounts) was significantly cheaper than a one-way flight (~$185 at the time of booking). While budget flights can sometimes be found for around $90, these often involve flying from less convenient airports like LaGuardia or JFK.
However, be prepared for a full day of travel. The train journey is best approached as an experience in itself, rather than a purely utilitarian mode of transport. It’s a fantastic opportunity to relax, enjoy the scenery, and perhaps even break up the trip with a stopover in upstate New York.
For those seeking a slower, more scenic, and potentially more budget-friendly way to travel between Toronto and New York, the train offers a compelling alternative to flying. Just remember to factor in extra time for the border crossing and embrace the journey!
